Like its neighbours, the laid-back and environmentally stunning country of Laos endured near-constant foreign occupation and war throughout the last two centuries. As a result, it’s currently one of the poorest countries in Asia, and its tourist industry is fledgling, to say the least.
This need not, however, be viewed pessimistically. The country’s economy is recovering rapidly, and the Laotian government’s approach to ecology is truly admirable. Laos holidays will immerse you in a glorious blend of conservation areas, untainted temples, monasteries and UNESCO world heritage sites, not to mention the country’s unavoidably laid-back atmosphere.
With 49 officially recognised ethnic groups, the Lao people are welcoming and gentle, predominantly Buddhist or adhering to indigenous religion. Their spirituality is evident everywhere, from the gilded Buddhist stupas in Vientiane, the country’s relaxed little capital, to their meditative way of life. In Laos, the exhibition of anger or impatience is considered taboo.
Because Laos is much less developed than many of the countries you’ve visited, prepare for basic – but clean – accommodation, and bumpy roads. It’s worth travelling under the guidance of a reliable Laos travel expert, and remember that transport will be far less convenient than you’re used to. Google “car rental Alicante”, or even Ethiopia, and you’ll be overwhelmed by offers from well-known international operators. Try it for Laos and you’ll discover that even those globe-spanning PLCs have yet to make inroads here.
Car hire is sometimes obtainable from local hotels, but usually inadvisable due to poor traffic safety. Although roads are improving, missing drain covers and rampant tree roots can be hazardous. Drivers often ignore little inconveniences like one-way systems and pedestrian crossings – take note if you intend to explore on foot!
That said, traffic here is saner than in more developed Asian cities like Saigon or Bangkok. If you dare, it’s fun to hire a bicycle or moped and go exploring, although do give the contraption a once-over before you set off. If you don’t fancy negotiating the roads for yourself, hire a tuktuk to tour the sights or simply for an exciting way to get from A to B.
Jumbos are another cheap and charming way to get around. Not elephants – although it is possible to hire those as well – jumbos are, essentially, big motorised tuktuks that take several passengers. For longer journeys it’s easy enough to hire a taxi, or for a less expensive option try a bus. These are uncomfortable but interesting, if you’re prepared to endure some knocks in exchange for a chat with the Lao people who’ll be travelling with you.
Perhaps the most captivating way to see Laos is by boat. River services are more reliable during, or just after, the wet season, and the boats are dwindling as the roads improve. The journey will be slow, hot and potentially cramped; take your own food and water if you’re going far. But the payoff – an unforgettable cruise through jungle-clad mountains and nature reserves – is usually worth any discomfort.







